Pool Closing Service

Purpose

Define the fall pool-closing protocol for residential in-ground pools in regions with winter freeze. A correct closing prevents freeze damage to the equipment + plumbing - a single cracked pump housing or freeze-burst pipe in February turns into a spring repair that costs the customer several times what the close did. The customer who pays for the close avoids paying for the repair.

Scope

Applies to:

• Residential in-ground pools with freeze risk
• Salt-system pools (cell removal + storage)
• Pools with attached spas (combo closing adds 30 min)

Excludes pools that stay open year-round (Sunbelt regions), and commercial pools (separate scope).

Responsibilities

• Dispatcher schedules closes Oct - Nov in northern regions, Nov - Dec in mid-Atlantic
• Lead technician runs the protocol; trainee handles cover handling + water bag deployment
• Customer is briefed on the post-close monitoring + spring re-open scheduling

Procedure

1. Customer briefing. "I'll lower the water, blow the lines clear, treat the water with winterizing chemicals, and install the cover. About 2 hours."
2. Final water test + chemical balance. pH 7.4 - 7.6, alkalinity 80 - 120, calcium hardness in range, free chlorine ~3 ppm.
3. Shock the pool. Cal-hypo or dichlor to 10 - 15 ppm chlorine to oxidize any contaminants before closing.
4. Add winterizing algaecide per the product label rate. Polyquat 60 (no metals) is the standard residential choice.
5. Lower the water level below the skimmer and return lines:

• Mesh safety cover: 12 to 18" below the skimmer. Rain and snowmelt pass straight through the mesh, so the level climbs all winter; start it low or it reaches the skimmer mouth by February
• Solid cover: 6" below the skimmer. Water lands on the cover and gets pumped off instead of entering the pool, so the level stays roughly where you set it
• For above-ground: drain to below the skimmer outlet

1. Drain all equipment. Remove drain plugs from:

• Pump (strainer lid drain + housing drain)
• Filter (drain at the bottom; cartridge filters: pull cartridge and store dry; sand filter: backwash + drain; DE filter: pull grids + clean)
• Heater (every drain plug; verify the manual - gas heaters have multiple)
• Salt cell: REMOVE entirely, rinse, store indoors

1. Blow out all plumbing. Use a high-volume air compressor (shop vac in blow mode works for smaller pools). Connect to the skimmer line, blow until bubbles continuously exit each return jet, then plug each jet with a winterizing plug.
2. Plug the skimmer. Either a gizzmo (a hollow tube that absorbs ice expansion) OR an expandable rubber freeze plug.
3. Add antifreeze (RV / pool antifreeze, NEVER automotive) to the lines that remained partially full after blow-out - typically not needed if blow-out was thorough.
4. Install the cover. A safety cover, mesh or solid, anchors to brass deck anchors with springs; tension it evenly and back the anchors flush when you are done. A non-anchored winter tarp cover is held down with water tubes around the perimeter, filled two-thirds so they can expand when they freeze, and never with bricks or blocks. Pump standing water off a solid cover through the season or it pools, stretches the cover, and pulls the anchors.
5. Document. Photo of the closed pool + cover + each equipment drain plug pulled (so spring techs know what to reinstall).
6. Hand off the customer's cover anchor key / hardware and confirm spring open-up scheduling.

Acceptance Criteria

• Water below skimmer + return ports
• All equipment drained + plugs collected (photographed) for spring
• All plumbing blown clear + ports plugged
• Cover installed + secured with appropriate weight system
• Customer signs field report; antifreeze (if used) + chemicals documented
• Salt cell removed + stored indoors (if applicable)

References

• APSP/PHTA closing standards for residential pools
• Equipment manufacturer service literature
• Manuall internal: Pool Opening Service, Weekly Recurring Pool Service