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Gutter Integration on Reroof SOP

SOP Process Updated Aug 24, 2026 · Roofing

Purpose

Define how gutters interface with reroof work so the roof + gutter systems function together. Most roof leaks at eaves involve gutter integration; correct handling here prevents callbacks + structural water damage.

Scope

Residential reroofing where gutters exist OR will be added. Excludes gutter-only replacement (separate trade).

Responsibilities

  • Roofing lead coordinates with gutter installer (if separate trade)
  • Customer decides if gutter replacement is included in scope
  • Office schedules gutter work to align with roof work timeline

Procedure

Phase 1: Pre-job assessment (during quote)

Inspect gutters before quoting reroof:

  1. Gutters: age, material, condition, leaking joints, sagging
  2. Downspouts: connection, condition, ground discharge
  3. Fascia behind gutters: rot, peeling paint, water staining
  4. Drip edge: present? Condition? Properly integrated with gutters?
  5. Roof-to-gutter clearance: how shingles meet gutter

Scope decisions:

  • Gutters under 10 years + good shape: leave + protect during reroof
  • Gutters > 15 years OR sagging OR leaking: recommend replacement during reroof (cheaper than separately)
  • Gutters with leaf guards: discuss with customer - leaf guards are removed for reroof + reinstalled (or replaced)

Phase 2: Protection during tear-off (Day 1)

If gutters stay:

  1. Remove leaf guards (set aside; not on lawn)
  2. Cover gutters with tarps to catch tear-off debris
  3. Tear off shingles + nails
  4. Vacuum debris from gutters immediately (don't let nails sit + cause rust stains)

Phase 3: Drip edge installation

Drip edge is the interface between roof + gutter:

  1. Install drip edge at eaves OVER underlayment OR UNDER (per code + manufacturer)
  2. Drip edge horizontal flange extends 1/4 to 1/2 inch over the gutter
  3. The gutter sits BELOW the horizontal flange (water sheds onto drip edge, into gutter)
  4. Gap between drip edge + gutter: ≤ 1/4 inch (larger = wind-driven rain misses gutter)

Phase 4: Shingle install

  1. First course of shingles aligns with starter strip
  2. First course bottom edge: 1/2 to 1 inch beyond drip edge
  3. Water flows off shingle, onto drip edge, into gutter

Phase 5: Gutter replacement (if scoped)

Done after roof complete (or before, depending on contractor)

  1. Remove old gutters
  2. Inspect fascia + repair any rot before new gutters
  3. Install new aluminum gutters (5" or 6" K-style most common)
  4. Hidden hangers spaced 24-32 inches
  5. Pitch: 1/4 inch per 10 feet toward downspouts
  6. Downspouts: 1 per 30-40 ft of gutter, sized for roof area
  7. Reinstall leaf guards if specified

Phase 6: Discharge + drainage

Critical but often overlooked:

  1. Downspouts discharge AWAY from foundation (minimum 6 ft, 10+ ft preferred)
  2. Underground drainage tile OR extension to grade
  3. Ground slope: away from foundation at 6 inches per 10 ft

Poor discharge = water at foundation = basement leaks. Always verify.

Phase 7: Verify + handoff

  1. Pour water in gutter at far end + watch flow to downspout
  2. Inspect every downspout outlet (no obstruction)
  3. Check for any drips where gutter meets house
  4. Customer walkthrough: explain drip edge + gutter integration

Acceptance criteria

  • Drip edge installed full length of eaves + rakes
  • Drip edge integrates properly with gutter (water sheds into gutter)
  • Gutters secure (no sagging, hangers tight)
  • Downspouts discharge away from foundation
  • Leaf guards reinstalled if applicable
  • Customer signoff

Common pitfalls

  • Skipping drip edge: water wicks under shingles, rots fascia
  • Drip edge too short: gutter misses the water flow
  • Drip edge too long: blocks gutter capacity, holds debris
  • Gutters sloped wrong direction: standing water, mosquito breeding, weight problems
  • Downspouts at foundation: water saturates soil at house, basement leaks
  • Reusing damaged hangers: gutter sags in 2-3 years
  • Forgetting leaf guard reinstallation: customer expected; complaint

Gutter sizing

Roof area + slope drives gutter capacity needed:

Roof area Gutter Downspout
< 1,500 sq ft 5" K-style 2 × 3
1,500-3,000 sq ft 5" K-style 3 × 4
3,000-5,000 sq ft 6" K-style 3 × 4
> 5,000 sq ft 6" K-style 4 × 5

Steeper slopes shed water faster → larger gutter or more downspouts.

When to recommend gutter replacement during reroof

  • Gutters 15+ years old (life expectancy varies; aluminum 15-25 years)
  • Visible sagging
  • Multiple leaking joints
  • Rust on steel gutters
  • Damage from ice damming
  • Fascia rot behind gutters (must repair fascia anyway)
  • Customer wants leaf guards (often easier with new gutters)
  • Aesthetic mismatch with new roof color

Combined work costs the customer materially less than two separate jobs, because the staging, the access, and the fascia work are already paid for once.

Coordinating with other trades

If a separate gutter contractor handles the gutter work:

  • Reach a written agreement on scope + timing
  • Schedule gutter install AFTER roof tear-off + drip edge (before first shingles ideally; or just after)
  • Both parties responsible for drip-edge/gutter interface
  • Avoid finger-pointing later: take photos of the interface

The most common roof-gutter callback: WATER OVERFLOWING GUTTERS in heavy rain even though the gutters are "good." Cause: drip-edge protrusion is too short, so water shoots past the gutter. Fix: bend drip-edge flange downward at 30° to direct water INTO the gutter. Five-minute fix on the truck saves the homeowner from believing their new roof is "leaking."

References

  • NRCA gutter integration guidelines
  • IRC Chapter 9 (Roof Assemblies): the flashing provisions and the asphalt-shingle drip edge requirement, in the edition your AHJ adopted. Drip edge became a prescriptive requirement in recent cycles rather than a best practice, so check the edition rather than assuming
  • Manuall internal: Asphalt Shingle Roof Replacement SOP, Roof Flashing Types + Installation Reference

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