Seasonal House Care Calendar for Homeowners

Why this matters

Most emergency calls a home service company takes in a year were visible weeks earlier to anyone who looked: a sump pump float that stuck in March and failed in the first April storm, a filter so loaded the furnace overheated on the first cold night, a dryer vent flap packed shut with lint. None of the checks that catch these take special tools or skills, and together they take a few hours a year. What makes them hard is remembering them at the right time.

This card is one calendar you can put on the inside of a closet door. It lists the jobs that are genuinely yours, the safe ones that need no tools beyond your hands and eyes, and beside each season the professional visits worth booking before everyone else books them.

How to use the calendar

Seasons, not dates. Spring here means the weeks before your area's storm and cooling season; fall means the weeks before the first freeze and the heating season. In a warm climate, shift everything: your "fall" list may happen in November or not at all, and your cooling tune-up matters more than the heating one.

Do the season's list in one session. Picking one Saturday morning per season and doing the whole list is more reliable than spreading it out, because a list that is spread out is a list that gets forgotten.

Write down what you found. A line in your house records with the date and anything odd turns a vague "I think the sump was fine" into a fact you can show a technician. See related: Your House Records File and What Goes In It.

Book the pro visits early. Heating tune-ups fill up in the first cold week and cooling tune-ups in the first hot one. Calling a month ahead usually gets you a convenient day.

The calendar

Minutes are a rough guide for a typical house, so you can plan the session.

SEASON  YOUR JOBS (about minutes)        BOOK A PRO
------  -------------------------------  ---------------
MONTHLY press test on every alarm (5)
SPRING  filter check or change (5)       cooling tune-up
        sump pump test (15)              irrigation
        gutters seen from ground in       start-up
          a rain (10)
        grill gas hose soap check (10)
        dryer vent flap check (5)
        dehumidifier on, filter clean
          (10)
        outdoor faucets reopened,
          checked for splits (10)
SUMMER  filter check or change (5)       dryer vent
        AC condensate line cleared (15)    cleaning
        dehumidifier emptied, set (10)
        2 ft cleared around outdoor
          AC unit (15)
FALL    filter check or change (5)       heating tune-up
        outdoor faucets winterized (20)  chimney
        gutters seen from ground after     inspection
          leaves drop (10)               irrigation
        dryer vent flap check (5)          blowout
        3 ft clear around furnace and
          water heater (10)
WINTER  filter check or change (5)       none needed
        vents and gas meter kept clear
          of snow and ice (10)
        sump discharge outlet clear (5)
        grill cylinder stored outdoors
          (5)

What each of your jobs is checking for

Alarm test, monthly. Pressing the test button confirms the battery, the horn and the circuit work. It takes a few seconds per alarm. Once a year, also read the manufacture date on the back of each one and note it, because smoke alarms are generally replaced at 10 years and carbon monoxide alarms on the schedule their maker prints. See related: How to Test Your Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms.

Filter check or change. A clogged filter starves the furnace or air conditioner of air, which makes it run hot, run long and wear out early. Many 1-inch filters are rated for one to three months; thicker media filters often last longer. Check it each season and change it when it is dirty or at its rated interval, whichever comes first, more often with pets or construction dust. See related: How to Change Your Furnace Filter.

Sump pump test. Before the wet season, confirm the pump starts when the water rises and shuts off when it falls. See related: How to Test Your Sump Pump Before Storm Season.

Gutters, seen from the ground. Stand outside during a steady rain, with an umbrella, and watch. Water spilling over the front edge of a gutter means a clog or a sag; a downspout that is dry while its gutter overflows is plugged; water pooling against the foundation means the downspout outlet needs extending. You do not need a ladder to find any of this, and ladder work on a roof edge is a job to hire out.

Grill gas hose soap check. Grill manuals tell you to check the hose and connections at the start of the season. With the burner knobs off, open the cylinder valve, brush soapy water on the hose and its fittings, and watch. Growing bubbles mean a leak: close the cylinder valve, do not light the grill, and replace the hose and regulator assembly with the maker's part or have the grill serviced, then soap-check the new connections before lighting it. If you smell strong gas and cannot close the valve, move everyone away from it and call 911 from a distance.

Dryer vent flap. Outside, find the hood where the dryer vents. With the dryer running, the flap should open and you should feel warm air; with it off, the flap should close. A flap stuck shut, or packed with lint, means the vent run is restricted, which is a fire risk. See related: Your Dryer Vent and Why It Matters.

Dehumidifier. In a damp basement, a dehumidifier set around 50 percent relative humidity keeps mold and musty odors down. Clean its filter, empty or check the drain hose, and confirm it is actually removing water.

Outdoor faucets. In freeze climates, close the inside shutoff and drain the outdoor faucet in fall, and reopen it in spring while someone watches the outside wall and the basement ceiling for a drip, because a split from a past freeze shows up the first time water reaches it. See related: How to Get Your Outdoor Faucets Ready for Winter.

AC condensate line. The line that carries water away from the indoor coil can clog with algae, and a clogged one can overflow a pan or shut the system off. See related: How to Clear Your Air Conditioner Condensate Line.

Clearance around equipment. Two feet around an outdoor AC unit lets it breathe; keep shrubs trimmed back and leaves off the top. Inside, keep the space around the furnace and water heater free of boxes, paint, gasoline and laundry. See related: How to Keep the Space Around Your Furnace and Water Heater Safe.

Vents and gas meter in winter. High-efficiency furnaces and water heaters often vent through plastic pipes in an outside wall. Drifted snow or ice over those pipes can shut the appliance down or, worse, push exhaust back. Keep them and the gas meter clear, brushing snow away by hand rather than chipping ice with a shovel.

Grill cylinder. Propane cylinders are stored outdoors, upright, never in the garage, basement or house, even in winter.

Why the pro visits sit where they do

Cooling tune-up in spring, heating tune-up in fall, before each system works hardest. A heat pump does both jobs, so many owners book it twice a year or once with both checks. Your technician is the one who looks inside the equipment, tests what you cannot, and can tell you what the readings mean.

Chimney inspection in fall, before the first fire, if you burn wood or have a fuel-burning appliance venting into a chimney.

Dryer vent cleaning once the flap check or the dryer's drying time tells you the run is restricted, and on a regular schedule for a long run.

Irrigation start-up and blowout if you have a sprinkler system in a freeze climate, since water left in the lines can split pipes and heads.

On their own schedules: a septic system is usually inspected every few years and pumped as often as your septic professional recommends for your tank and household; water heater flushing follows the maker's manual. Those belong in your records with their next due date rather than on a season line.

The tech-facing companion to this calendar is Teaching Seasonal Habits That Prevent Emergencies; this card is the version written for you.

Worked example: one first year in a basement house

The house. A two-story house with a basement and a sump pump, a gas furnace, central air, a gas grill on the deck, a basement dehumidifier and a dryer venting out the side wall, in a climate with real winters. New owners, using the calendar for the first time.

Time. The monthly alarm presses take about 5 minutes across the house, so 12 months is 60 minutes. The season lists add up to 65 minutes in spring, 45 in summer, 50 in fall and 25 in winter, which is 185 minutes. All together, 245 minutes in a year, a little over 4 hours.

Spring session, what it found. Three problems out of the seven jobs.

  • The sump pump did not start when they poured water into the pit; the float was hung up on the pump's power cord. They stopped there, kept the pump plugged in, did not reach into the pit, and called a plumber, who reset the float and secured the cord. That was in April. The first heavy storm came in May.
  • The front left gutter overflowed in a steady rain while its downspout ran nearly dry. They booked a gutter cleaning instead of climbing a ladder.
  • The grill hose bubbled at the regulator fitting during the soap check. They closed the cylinder valve, did not light the grill, and replaced the hose and regulator assembly with the grill maker's part, and soap-checked the new fittings with no bubbles before cooking on it.

Summer. Nothing found. The dehumidifier had collected less water than expected, so they checked that its drain hose was not kinked; it was fine and the basement was simply dry that season.

Fall. The dryer vent flap opened only partly with the dryer running, and loads were taking two cycles. They booked a dryer vent cleaning alongside the heating tune-up. The furnace technician noted a clean filter and wrote the date on the next one.

What the year was worth. Four problems in a year: the stuck float, the gutter overflow, the leaking grill hose and the restricted dryer vent. Each is the kind that turns into a flooded basement, water at the foundation, a gas fire or a dryer fire if left until it fails, and each was found on a planned day rather than during a storm or a cookout. The one false alarm, the quiet dehumidifier, cost five minutes to clear.

What would change this calendar for you. A slab house with no basement drops the sump and dehumidifier lines. A house in a mild climate drops the faucet winterizing and the snow line, and may book its cooling tune-up earlier and more often. An all-electric house with a heat pump drops the gas meter, but keeps the outdoor unit clearance all year, including snow.

References

  • See related: Teaching Seasonal Habits That Prevent Emergencies
  • See related: How to Test Your Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms
  • See related: How to Test Your Sump Pump Before Storm Season
  • See related: Your House Records File and What Goes In It
  • Your equipment's owner's manuals, which set filter, flushing and service intervals for that equipment